Ballymaloe: Ireland's Best Hotel?
Our writer says that Ballymaloe House in Ireland's County Cork is one of the best hotels in the world
Ballymaloe House in County Cork has been hailed for Myrtle Allen's cookery since 1964, and still impresses guests with the best service and cuisine in Ireland, and beyond
If on a winter’s night you spend the evening at Ballymaloe House in Ireland's County Cork, consider yourself fortunate. From the large lounge with a crackling log fire, where you enjoy an aperitif while your order is taken for dinner with relaxed expertise, to the restaurant itself, Ballymaloe House is one of the best hotels I’ve ever stayed in.
On a visit to Ballymaloe in December, the only problem was what to choose from the five-course menu. From the five dishes per course, I had potato, onion and thyme soup, surprised by how light it was, followed by a warm salad of wild pheasant. Next, I tucked into escalope of haddock with scallops and buttered cucumbers, a delicate, fresh fish. My partner choose the melon, grape, orange and mint cocktail, goujons of plaice, and then the roast haunch of venison with parsnip crisps, with roasted winter vegetables and duchess potatoes. After a break, the trolley of Irish cheeses came along. I managed a sliver of Cashel blue, another of crisp cheddar, then a further breather.
There was a discussion at another table about whose recipe had been used for the plum pudding. It was Myrtle Allen’s, the waitress assured me. Beautifully light, with brandy sauce and a hint of orange, this had none of the cloying leadenness of traditional Christmas pudding.
Next morning for breakfast, I had porridge. After I left school I swore I’d never eat it again, but was persuaded to try by Ann Mac, the cheerful lady who has served breakfast at Ballymaloe for years. Then came the traditional Irish breakfast dish of fresh fish. That morning it was grilled cod, with a fresh mushroom and half a tomato.
Myrtle Allen and her late husband Ivan founded Ballymaloe House in 1964. They set out to use only fresh produce from their garden and greenhouses, meat reared locally, and fresh fish from nearby Ballycotton. The menu is written each afternoon, when they know what is available. This is food cooked to perfection, served in a friendly, knowledgeable way.
We’ve been in the summer when they have had a wedding, as well as a hundred covers for dinner, and in midwinter with just thirty diners. It matters not, the standard never falters. The third generation of the Allen family are now involved in the business. Long may they keep the Ballymaloe flag flying.
Ballymaloe's five-course menu costs at 65 euro (£43/US$85 at the time of writing). To check the current exchange rate click here.
Ballymaloe House, Shanagarry, Co Cork, Ireland.
Visit their website by clicking here.
